I’m spending this summer (partly) thinking about how much the food world has changed since I went off to restaurant school 30 years ago. And it has changed in more ways you can ever imagine. For today the subject is snow peas. Back in 1983 they were rather effete. My going-away gift from the NYTimes national desk was Martha Stewart’s revolutionary Entertaining, which featured the uptown legumes split open and stuffed with cream cheese or something only a catering cast of thousands could be bothered with. Over the decades I’ve watched them devolve into limp and wan specimens available year-round but never worth eating. And here we are in 2013, with snow peas in farmers’ markets (at least NYC’s) looking as if they’ve been hanging out at the gym the last decade or so. These meaty guys are from Bialas Farms. With luck, they may be coming soon to an outlet near you. They could actually make you understand why snow peas took off to begin with, in a world where it was impossible to find regular fresh peas with sweetness and tenderness, and where sugar snaps were yet to be mass-marketed. In 1983, after all, arugula was a very strange green.