I’ve been eating Mexican since I was in utero, so I should be embarrassed to be wondering: Where have molletes been all my life? These are the greatest thing since bacon guacamole. Basically they’re tostadas based on a special sandwich roll rather than a fried corn tortilla, with refried beans, cheese and salsa layered on top. This version, at Barrio Chino on the Lower East Side (home of the killer jalapeño margarita), was gussied up with chorizo and avocado, too. And it was sensational. I grew up on refried beans, but it still seems odd to eat them on bread. Increasingly that’s what you do as NYC gets more sophisticated about Mexican: Tortas and cemillas are on any menu worth its menudo. As much as I love burritos, I’m thinking molletes could vanquish them as lunch as home. This Epicurious recipe simplifies them. Unlike burritos, and guacamole, molletes also have a shelf life. This one was so huge I kittybagged half, and the server recommended reheating it next day with a fried egg on top. We wound up eating it cold as a snack, and it was still pretty great.